Parts of a wheel - The good bits.

January 4, 2012

Hello there, speedfreaks!  Today we are going to more or less go in depth about wheels... talking about what makes a wheel fast.  There are four components to look at: hubs, spokes, nipples and rims.  I'll cover Hubs and rims here and spokes and nips next time. 
Depending on the terrain, a wheel is fast under any given circumstances in which it performs the best.  A wheel that responds coming out of a corner is fast.  A wheel that is lightweight will take less effort to spin up to speed and feel like it defies gravity going uphill is fast.  A disc wheel on the back of your bike can transform your bike into a freight train that there’s no slowing down once you get over 28 mph.  A deep carbon wheel set will react to every pedal stroke, etc… There are all around wheel sets that can cover any kind of situation well - without getting too far into highly specialized wheels that sit in a corner more than they're on a bike.

But at the center of every wheel is a hub.  A hub that rolls fast is the best hub, and high quality bearings and extremely tight manufacturing tolerances will ensure that your hub will roll fast for a long time. There are many options to select a hub that has high quality construction and bearings. 

Sealed bearing hubs from DT Swiss like the 240s - 314 grams/ pr, or  180 @ 290 grams a pair which use ceramic bearings and a lightweight freehub body have a unique star ratchet system which reduces drag over conventional pawl engagement designs. They set the standard for low weight high performance hubs with an incredibly simple design that is highly effective. Perfektion : Leave it to the Swiss...or the USA -  White industries T11 road hubs - 344 grams/ pr, and their new CX-11 11 speed cyclocross specific disc hub - 504 grams/ pr. 

are renowned for their quality craftsmanship and show finish– these hubs use high quality bearings, tight machine tolerances and a titanium freehub body that has the strength of steel with the light weight of aluminum.The spacing on the flanges is nice and wide at the front.   A large flange on the drive side has helped keep the tensions more even at the back and help prevent wind up.  The smaller flange on the non-drive side saves weight. Super sweet laser engraving- made in 'Merica! Titanium is a good choice for all riders because it is light as aluminum and strong as steel. So it keeps the weight down while preventing this .... 

Chris King hubs are amazing as well and have the renowned durability and quality that their name has come to be recognized with, providing a unique engagement system that transfers your power quicker than you can say breakaway. The R45 - 325 grams/ pr. is a revision of the classic King hubs. They have decreased the pawl engagement from 72 points to 45 to lower drag and reduce weight. What you can see in the cut away photo is King's patented Ring Drive system that offers faster engagement than a hub with pawls and is actually quieter. Chris King is the only manufacturer here that makes their own bearings and balls within the races. They make and use angular contact bearing which have a very high static load capacity - similar to a high quality loose ball bearing hub like Dura Ace. Super light aluminum axles and freehub body keep the weight anorexic. - Made in the U.S.A

  Of course, there is the old Japanese standby: Shimano.  These guys set the standard in design with their Dura Ace hubs, using a Titanium freehub body loose ball bearings, their bearing surfaces are precision machined to give the smoothest and most durable rotation assembly available.This is particularly important while a wheel is rotating on its axis where low grade sealed bearing can shift, increasing drag and slowing you down.

This is the big four favorites for wheel builders, but their are a myriad of excellent manufacturers out there that may fit your needs, budget, and aesthetic. Here are a few...Royce Ultralight/ Venus 432 grams/ pr., Alchemy Elf - 258 grams/ pr., KT - 328 grams/ pr , Hope Pro 2 Evo Disc hubs - 470 grams/ pr.. 

Choosing the right rim is precedent because you want something that is the best for the type of road feel and slippery wind cheating shape. On flat terrain where aerodynamics comes into play such as in a break away or time trial, a deeper section rim with a reduced spoke count or bladed spokes is best. A deeper section rim effectively reduces the spoke length needed to build a wheel, creating a stiffer stronger wheel. A stiff wheel is needed when a rider applies a great deal of lateral force to the bike when sprinting and climbing. Stiffness of a wheel reduces the lateral flex, thereby increasing the power transfer from the pedals to perpetuate forward motion. So rather than flexing side to side, a stiff wheel will allow a rider to get the maximum amount of power to the ground to go faster.

Let the terrain dictate the kind of wheel that will be the fastest for you. If comfort helps you go faster over rough roads, shallower rims are best. If pure speed is what you after than a deeper section rim with less spokes will improve the aerodynamics of your bike. Aero spokes will make it even faster. If you are a bigger rider, this may not apply and using more, thicker gauge spokes in a wheel will make you faster because there will be less chance that you will break a spoke and not be able to finish a ride or race. Rims we like to use have the best balance of modern technology and offer deep profiles for enhance aerodynamics and wider tire beds for stiffness and improved tire performance. What I'm talking about is wider is better, fo sho. Check out Bontrager's take on the world of tubeless compatibility with their Race Lite series.

Hed's Belgium C2 Scandium rims - 23 mm wide, and their new Belgium + , 25mm wide, are very strong and light even for the burliest of the burlesque. Welded seam and machined brake track. Disc specific rims have no machined sidewalls and look blacked out. If you've never ridden these, we have a set of Demo wheels for you to test.  For a complete custom wheel set starting at $700, these come in for less chowder than Hed's stock Ardennes wheelset and are guaranteed to blow your hair back.

H-Plus Son - Not urban slang for using a capital H - but a stout semi aero answer to Hed's 23 mm rim. With a welded seam and anodized or burnished aluminum finish options this rims make a statement and match pace with their performance.

Rim Profiles and the Effect on Aerodynamics

Rim Profiles and the Effect on Aerodynamics

Aerodynamics is key in addressing the way a wheel should be built.  I personally love a deep section rim with fewer spokes because it changes the entire ride characteristic of your bike and requires less effort to maintain speed.  I use a 66 mm. deep carbon wheel for all around riding and they really shine on race day.  I use 36h  aluminum rims for training where the increased weight and wind resistance aids in training.  Switching over to the deeper rims for racing just makes the bike feel so much faster as they provide the best aerodynamics to stiffness ratio.  The only downfall of an aerodynamic rim is that more material is needed to make a deeper section rim and they tend to be heavier. Deep section rims range from around 30 mm. to 90 mm. deep. Carbon fiber rims provide the best benefit of a deeper aero profile without the weight penalty of an aluminum rim.  Carbon rims can be built much deeper than aluminum rims but with much less weight than a similar profile aluminum rim.  Case in point: a Mavic Open Pro rim with an 18 mm depth weighs about 430 grams.  A 46 mm deep carbon rim weighs 450 grams.  Because carbon is very strong it can be built with less spokes, thereby reducing overall wheel weight compared to the Open Pro built with 32 spokes, and it will still be stiffer.  Carbon rims are commonly found in incremental depths averaging 35 mm., 45 mm., 65 mm., and 80 mm.  In this regard they are ideal, but quite expensive.  A good compromise is to use a 27- 38 mm. deep aluminum rim to keep the cost and weight down when looking for an affordable aerowheel.  The deeper the rim the more aerodynamic and stiff it will be.

This is not to say that lower profile rims cannot be built to be stiff.  A traditional box section rim can be built using more spokes to get be quite stiff.  In effect, this will increase the weight and lower the drag co-efficient, making them a less aerodynamic option.  Most aero aluminum and carbon rims are built with fewer spokes, typically between 16-24 on the front wheel and 20-28 spokes on the rear.  Using fewer spokes reduces the overall weight of the wheel and provides better aerodynamics by decreasing turbulent airflow or increasing the drag co-efficient. Select aero bladed spokes with a flat cross section to slice through the atmosphere and you will really reduce drag. Traditional aluminum box section rims vary in depth from 18-27 mm. Rim depth greatly affects the ride quality of a wheel.  Lower profile or shallow depth rims provide a lively ride quality that has better rebound and can dampen the ride.  This, in part, is due to the fact that there is less material to provide rigidity as well as the use of longer spokes required to build the wheel, which provide more “spring”.

If you've ever witnessed the spring classics such as Fleche Wallone, Flanders or Paris-Roubaix you’ll see a large number of riders on traditional box section aluminum rims built with 32 or 36 spokes per wheel. Modern bikes and riders with seemingly dated wheels... This is because the tenacious nature of these races drives riders over the roughest roads and teams use them because they provide the greatest amount of strength and comfort in the most adverse conditions.   Increased spoke count on a wheel improves durability and makes them easier to repair by more evenly distributing the tension of the wheel to all of the spokes.

Reduced spoke count wheels (ie. 24h, 20h) have greater tension which puts a significantly higher amount of strain on the rim, pulling it in opposite directions.  The high tension makes for one responsive wheel that can transform a bike from feeling soggy to crisp.  But because of this higher tension, when a spoke breaks on an aluminum wheel, the rim will often permanently distort making it irreparable even when a spoke is replaced and the wheel is brought back up to the correct tension. Catastrophic failures of this nature make exotic aluminum wheels a gamble when riding over cobblestones.  Carbon Fiber rims are commonly built with higher tensioned spokes but don't suffer from radical distortion if a spoke breaks. Carbon has excellent elasticity and will continue to bend and return to its original shape. This means that replacing a broken spoke will bring it back to the original shape without distortion. The reinforcement of shape memory polymers makes carbon a malleable material to create distinct aero shapes with. When it cools it yields a contrasting material that yields under incredible force yet can be engineered to provide great stability and stiffness (or flexibility) in specific directions. This is important when creating a wheel that rides smoothly but has high lateral rigidity.  Every material has its limitations in terms of memory but carbon fiber has very high strength to weight ratio and requires incredible force to break when strained against it's layup. It has good impact resistance to a degree. A force that would dent an aluminum rim would crack a carbon rim, relegating it to the scrap heap while an aluminum rim would still be safe, but lumpy.. There is a breaking point, but it is quite high and difficult to convey the exact amount of force required for failure. A carbon tube used for a bicycle's top tube, say on a Tr#k requires approximately 3,600 lb's of force to break. When it comes to wheels there are a number of factors initiating dynamic force on it's makeup from the rider, road, and the inertia of two said masses converging at high rate of speed.

These properties in addition to its compliant ride quality and dampening characteristics make it an ideal material for rims used when riding on rough surfaces and many professional riders use carbon wheels in the spring classics. If you have any question about carbon rims being strong enough watch this... Of course, cost is a major factor when considering using carbon rims and teams have a quiver of wheels provided by sponsors. The traditional box section rims are still used by traditionalists who rely their tried and true durability.

.

(L)Tubular carbon rim at Paris Roubaix. (R) Ambrosio box section tubular at the same race.

 

In addition, the box section rims used by professional racers are tubular rims. Tubular rims are built without the taller bead of a clincher rim and require that the tire is glued to the rim.  I will cover tubular vs. clincher tires in another article.  The tubular rim can be constructed using less material, or lighter weight materials using a higher thread count (Think of how nice higher thread count sheets feel...) and is inherently lighter than their clincher counterparts. Tubular rims are used for this purpose and provide the benefit of running larger volume tires at lower pressure, contributing to a smoother ride quality from the added cushion, making them faster on rough roads or for cyclocross. A traditional 32 spoke tubular rim excels in this type of terrain where aerodynamics is not as influential. See Sheldon Brown's article on aero wheels that disseminates the stark differences between 36h traditionally laced wheels and 18 spoke 58mm deep carbon aero wheels - yet, somehow magically aligns them in sharing similar lateral and radial stiffness as only Sheldon Brown can do.

When considering the type of material to use when building a rim it is important to take into consideration the type of conditions that they will be subject to.  After all a wheel set is an investment that you want to get the most out of without having to save them for special events or ideal riding conditions.  Professional riders use carbon rims for all types of racing and training but they require more maintenance than an aluminum rim because the braking surface is more prone to wear when introducing dirt, sand and rain between the pad and rim.  Big teams have big budgets and wheel sponsors provide them with multiple sets of wheels to use day in and day out.  For the everyday cyclist who is considering investing in a set of carbon hoops regular maintenance will prevent wear and improve braking but be advised, if you ride all winter and never clean them after riding in the rain and slush the braking surface will wear significantly faster than an aluminum rim.  Many people use them for everyday riding because the performance of the wheels is addictive and they are, in fact, quite durable. The investment made for a good custom wheel set that is designed for the rider will pay dividends down the road and will be a pleasure to ride day in and day out. Increased aerodynamics benefits the road rider of any size defeat their greatest enemy and get to the point - which is to go faster.

 

---"Shut up legs wind!"
-Jens Voigt











-gene
gene_ruiter@cycleloft.com

New Wheels - Functional, Stylistic, Aeroodynamic

Reynolds 81mm laced to White T11 - (20) DT Aerolite Spokes - 1010 g

A very deep profile for the rear wheel increases the drag coefficient of a bicycle to help it slip through the wind faster. Carbon fiber is the best material for this type of application because it is so much lighter than aluminum and allows for more extreme shape design to give it improved aerodynamic properties. This rim shape is possible with aluminum but would come with a huge weight penalty - which is why you never see it.

Super deep rim has the advantages of a disc wheel for time trial and triathlon, but is lighter and more maneuverable and versatile across other road riding disciplines thanks to Reynolds' patented SLG technology and offers better braking than it's competitor's with their CTG brake track.

White Industries is a small machine shop in Petaluma, CA that has been manufacturing highest quality USA made hubs, cogs, cranks, and pedals since 1978. The craftsmanship is impeccable and extremely durable and lightweight. Titanium freehub body is 11 speed compatible on their T11 hub for a seamless transition to Shimano and SRAM's latest componentry, while still compatible with 9 and 10 speed drivetrains. I've been using this hub on the majority of my wheel builds since it was released last year. This is a hub that you hold on to and use from bike to bike for years. $275 for the rear hub is cheaper than King and DT and weighs just 252 g. 

      

For questions and dream wheel consultations, please contact me here...gene_ruiterATcycleloftdotcom- thanks

Next up.... wider is better......and how?...HED Belgium Powertap G3 rear wheel / HED Belgium DT 350 front wheel

-Gene

Upgrading wheels to improve your bicycle's performance

Many cyclist look for performance advantages within their equipment. It is widely accepted in the cycling community that  lighter, more aerodynamic wheels can make a bike feel faster. The difference is so dramatic that it is immediately noticeable compared with any other upgrade.

There are several considerations to make when selecting the right wheels for your bike. Keep in Mind the following questions when choosing a wheel set:

What type of riding do you do? Aggressive sprinter, svelte climber, rolleur,  randonneuring, or off road etc… The right rim, spoke count and lacing pattern, as well as hub quality can make a world of difference when built  for a specific type of riding and wheels can be built to excel across several disciplines.

Most of us want a wheel that can do it all. But hold on, there has to be a compromise, right?

Are you looking for a wheel that is durable, light, aerodynamic, or all three?  The answer to this question is– how much do you want to spend? (Which is also a question, unfortunately.) There is always a compromise that can be made when it comes to cost.  Even the most budget conscious rider can get on a wheel that is aerodynamic and stiff.  A general rule of thumb is the lighter the wheel set, typically the more it will cost.  But weight isn't everything when it comes to fast wheels. An aerodynamic wheel that has greater rotational mass than a light weight climbing wheel will be fast because it sustains it's inertia better once it is up to speed. Therefore, making it a fast wheel at a given speed over 22 mph for example. Given an individual budget, all three characteristics are within reach.  Performance aluminum wheels range in price from around $400-$1500.  Wheels built using carbon rims range in price starting at $1,000 up to $6,000.  Finding the right wheels with the characteristic you’re looking for doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg. There is a way to get the additional speed you’re looking for even with an affordable pair of wheels.

How much do you weigh?  Rider weight has a large bearing on the performance of any given wheel.  A wheel that is stiff and durable for a rider that weighs 140 lbs may not be stiff or strong enough for a 190 lb. rider.  Specific spoke counts and lacing patterns, hub design, rim styles and weight all affect the characteristics of a wheel.

So how do you know what will work best for a specific application or all around riding? Experience is the definitive answer but I will clarify the type of components that make a good wheel for a specific rider in the upcoming posts. Stay tuned. Knowledge is power. Power is speed. Speed is fun.

 

-Gene

Gene, Gene made a machine...

Hi there, My name is Gene and I've been an employee at Cycle Loft since 2007. I know it sounds like I'm opening up at a meeting, but I assure you I don't have a problem. A few years ago Jeff started a blog for the shop and other outlying interests of the shop. It has lost some momentum since it's inception and Jeff approached me about breathing some new life into it. I gave up writing for a living after falling in love with cycling. It's a good thing because it's always paid the bills. I've been a mechanic for 15 years or so and specialize in custom wheel building so I like to talk about wheels a lot. Throughout this blog you'll find some technical articles about bicycles and specifically, wheel products, the physics of cycling, and anything going on in the shop mixed in with some humor. Not too much though, as we are very serious about our part time amateur bloggership. You may just  find yourself encountering interesting articles such as this:

http://physics.ucsd.edu/do-the-math/2011/11/mpg-of-a-human/ 

 or this, which you wish you hadn't:...

As an aside, a generic shape not designed with aerodynamics in mind—let’s call it a man-bear-pig—will have a drag coefficient around 0.8–1.4. A trout, on the other hand, has a drag coefficient around 0.1. What we really need is a trout on a bicycle! Then we’d really be smokin’. We can turn the famous feminist slogan that “a woman needs a man like a fish needs a bicycle” on its head with the observation that a bicycle really screams out to have a fish ride it! - See more at: http://physics.ucsd.edu/do-the-math/2011/11/mpg-of-a-human/#sthash.tHs5BKjC.dpuf

As an aside, a generic shape not designed with aerodynamics in mind—let’s call it a man-bear-pig—will have a drag coefficient around 0.8–1.4. A trout, on the other hand, has a drag coefficient around 0.1. What we really need is a trout on a bicycle! Then we’d really be smokin’. We can turn the famous feminist slogan that “a woman needs a man like a fish needs a bicycle” on its head with the observation that a bicycle really screams out to have a fish ride it! - See more at: http://physics.ucsd.edu/do-the-math/2011/11/mpg-of-a-human/#sthash.tHs5BKjC.dpuf

As an aside, a generic shape not designed with aerodynamics in mind—let’s call it a man-bear-pig—will have a drag coefficient around 0.8–1.4. A trout, on the other hand, has a drag coefficient around 0.1. What we really need is a trout on a bicycle! Then we’d really be smokin’. We can turn the famous feminist slogan that “a woman needs a man like a fish needs a bicycle” on its head with the observation that a bicycle really screams out to have a fish ride it! - See more at: http://physics.ucsd.edu/do-the-math/2011/11/mpg-of-a-human/#sthash.tHs5BKjC.dpuf

As an aside, a generic shape not designed with aerodynamics in mind—let’s call it a man-bear-pig—will have a drag coefficient around 0.8–1.4. A trout, on the other hand, has a drag coefficient around 0.1. What we really need is a trout on a bicycle! Then we’d really be smokin’. We can turn the famous feminist slogan that “a woman needs a man like a fish needs a bicycle” on its head with the observation that a bicycle really screams out to have a fish ride it! - See more at: http://physics.ucsd.edu/do-the-math/2011/11/mpg-of-a-human/#sthash.tHs5BKjC.dpuf

 http://www.boston.com/yourtown/boston/backbay/bbgallery/boston_world_naked_bike_ride/

I have a history of shirking technologically newborn stuff and have been accused of being a retro grouch luddite, but don't judge. I can appreciate a thing for it's quality, craftsmanship, and beauty. I love steel bikes for their simple beauty, downtube shifters for their mechanical perfection, and commonsense stuff the everyday rider can appreciate. I fell in love with wheel building because it offered such a dynamic way to improve the overall ride quality of a bike. Because of this, I often have wheels on my bike that are worth more than the complete bike. Well built wheels can make a good bike great. But, the best wheels are those designed specifically for you. Designing and building wheels that are customized to deliver the ideal ride characteristics for the user is an art. It's not just about picking a bunch of nice products and assembling them correctly. (Well, mostly it is)

Having the experience and knowledge of how materials, rim shapes, hub design, spoke thicknesses and lengths, and lacing patterns changes the wheel's characteristics and how a rider with their machine affecting the experience. The relationship between a rider and their bike is an emotional one, and in the end, riding a bike is only for fun. Even if it is used as a tool for training or commuting, carrying rabbit traps into the wild or hauling fish to market, it is still a fun experience. See!!??? photo...

Of course, there's always the exception...
















You rarely hear anyone say gridlock this morning on my bike on the way to work was hell. Or, I just got put together for $2,000- bucks for an alternator. You know why, because, bikes don't have alternators. But they do have wheels and they'd be a lot less fun if they didn't. I look forward to spending time with each and every on of you. Signing off for now. By the way, if you're curious after just this post about wheels--send me an email, let's talk! -Gene (gene_ruiterATcycleloft.com)

How to Buy Cycling Shorts?

I've been asked the question for years--why wear cycling shorts? Some say, "I really don't like the 'shiny heiny' look, aka, tight lycra spandex. Well for those people super sensitive about that, you can still get all the benefits of a cycling short, with shall we say, a bit more modesty, with a "double short," but more to come on that later--the reality is that there is a real function and performance benefit to these snug fitting garments.

Let's just get to basics. I've been in the cycling industry for over 20 years, and have spent the majority of that time helping cyclists buy softgoods, namely clothing, shoes, and helmets--so at this point, let's presume that I know what I'm talking about, shall we? Not to mention I've used myself as a test dummy for countless different brands and styles of product over the years.

Why wear cycling shorts? Good question. The simple answer is to have a smooth interface between one's body [pelvis and rear end] and the bicycle saddle. Yes, cycling shorts do have seams, though they are stitched in such a way as to eliminate friction between one's body and one's saddle.

The inside of the short has a chamois (pad) in it--that can vary in design, thickness, and material. Suffice to say that having a garment that fits like a second skin allows the rider to sit comfortably on the saddle without rubbing or chafing of the downstairs sensitive areas--otherwise known as the "soft tissue" area, or the "nether region." The downstairs area need to be free of friction so that saddle sores and other irritations do not occur. These "pads," as they are referred come in a variety of shapes and sizes, think male and female specific, as well as thicker, thinner, welded seams, flat stitched, the list of permutations and synthetic technologies goes on and on. Back in the day, say the mid-80s and earlier, these pads were truly chamois and made of leather--talk about inconsistencies in thickness--I remember it well. That's when one needed to moisturize the chamois after each washing. Oh boy, contemporary technologies have far eclipsed what was; thank goodness.

One of the first questions asked after "why?" is the "U" question--simply stated, when you are in the comfort of your own home, ie when you're not trying on the garments at your local independent bicycle shop--it's all about your birthday suit and the bicycle short--nothing else.

If someone wears an undergarment inside the short, much less a cotton one, then the rider is simply asking for trouble--too much material which will bind and fold and cause irritation to the aforementioned nether regions. Take my word for it--birthday suit and cycling short--that's it!

Cycling shorts are generally speaking made of some sort of synthetic fabric, which will wick moisture away from one's skin and allow it to evaporate from its top most layer, thereby keeping the riding dryer and more comfortable. There are, of course, a variety of different materials used these days in cycling shorts--some more abrasion resistance, some more compressive, some more ventilated.

Look at most any brand, and that clothing vendor will have a range of shorts, with a range of prices, and correspondingly a range of quality and technologies in their shorts. Pearl Izumi, Mavic and Castelli certainly follow suit herein.

Wearing cycling shorts is more comfortable because of the compression--keeps everything down there in one place, the pad--those saddles can be pretty firm, and the materials which wick moisture. Enough said. Now how do should they fit?

These garments should be snug and form fitting. Remember at the local shop you'll want to keep your underwear on for try on purposes. Most people will wear the same waist size in the cycling short as they wear in "street" clothes. The cycling short should be snug around the leg above the knee (some shorts have longer or shorter inseams, mind you.) The shorts should not gap or have extra material gathering at the back of the leg where the buttocks begins. Snug and form fitting should not be misconstrued to mean constricting. As I'll mention in my post on shoe fitment, a glove can be too tight even though it fits like a glove. Above all else the cycling short should fit like a second skin, without being constricting. This does lend itself to a nice segue into the discussion of the waist band--an area on many us fraught with "peril."

No one likes something too tight around their waist--and on the big this is even more important because of the bent over position that most riders adopt (to varying degrees) while reaching the handlebars. With "half" shorts, standard, regular shorts, the waist band is there--and it can become uncomfortable on longer riders, especially when eating and drinking on the bike will come into play. Not to mention the dreaded issue of the rear of the short tending to slide down...we've all seen enough the that visual to know to what I'm referring. We'll leave it at that.

The solution you ask? Bib shorts! What you say, men or women, I'm not wearing overall shorts on the bike--calm down everyone. Alot of women will say no to bibs out of hand because of the known issue with "nature breaks" while on the road--although there are some innovations in a drop flap or detachable suspenders, the reality is that there are some differences in plumbing that make it a bite more inconvenient for women to wear bibs--they are out there--look at the women riding at competitive level--they wear bibs. So do most men--look at the pictures online and you'll clearly see straps going over their shoulders UNDER their jerseys--and that's one key point that needs mentioning.

Yes, men, please listen, you are meant to wear your cycling jersey OVER your bib short straps--I can assure you that no one likes to see a man on a bike bare chested with bib straps. Can we just leave it at that? Here's what I recommend: Get a base layer, tank top or tshirt style, that can be worn in hot or cold temperatures--baselayers is a whole other story--then bib shorts, straps over the baselayer (no chafing on one's chest), and the cycling jersey over that. No problem, no worries. Road or mountain, bibs are the deal. It's as simple as that. But let me explain for those that won't simply take my word for it, or the fact that EVERY high level cyclist wears bibs, not half shorts.

With the bib short, one does not have to worry about the waist band digging into one's gut thereby potentially interfering with one's breathing, drinking, and digestion of food while riding. Have to take a road side pit stop? No worries, just lift up your jersey and pull down the front of the bib--plenty of stretch there to make room for the business doing. No more worrying about exposing the top of one's backside either--they can't ride down while you're riding. And on these in between weather days, there's a little more material covering one's lower back--an area that can be sensitive to cold.

Fitting tip for bibs--the front and back of legs, not to mention the groin area, should all fit like their half short counterpart--the one difference is because of the braces, straps, when one stands tall, the strap may feel tight or pull slightly. Solution: just get into the cycling position someone bent over from the torso, and the tension of the straps will release sufficiently. Done.

One note--if you are a rider, mountain, hybrid, road, or otherwise, and prefer not to wear a standalone cycling short, then there is a wide variety of "double shorts" available--think of a surf short with a cycling pad covertly hidden inside. Modesty and performance in one inconspicuous package. There are a variety of technologies in this style as well, especially when it comes to technical mountain bike gear.

Which brand is the best? Ah, what a loaded question, if I ever heard one. I'm not sure if there's one that is the "best," meaning it fits everyone, has every bell and whistle imaginable, all for a reasonable price--what I can say is that there are a lot of good cycling shorts out there. Which one will fit the best? I have no clue until you try on a variety of them in the correct size--see which fits your body best. Then see what price point makes sense for you. Generally speaking the more you invest in your cycling shorts, the more technology you'll have at your disposal, and you'll have to see what fits your body and price sensitivity best. I do have my favorites at the present time, and I've ridden a variety of bib shorts over the years.

At the Cycle Loft we have a full range of prices and styles from Castelli, Mavic, Pearl Izumi, Specialized, and Bontrager. Come on in and try some shorts on to see the difference they can make in your cycling comfort and enojoyment.

Questions or comments on this blog, please feel free to email me directly: jeff@cycleloft.com

Talking About Coaching

A Conversation with Kurt Begemann, Cycle Loft's In-House Coach: This first appeared in 2008 upon Kurt's arrival to the Cycle Loft. [Check back soon for similar Q&A with Kurt about the benefits of Track Cycling. In 2010, Kurt became the Director of the Northeast Velodrome & Cycling Park in Londonderry, NH. He continues to coach riders, new and experienced, on the etiquette and discipline necessary to become a successful track racer. He will be coaching an introductory intensive course on Track Cycling June 11 & 12. See here for details on this "Try the Track Clinic."]

Kurt Begemann, USA Cycling Level II Coach, and member of Cycle Loft's staff answers Cycle Loft owner, Jeff Palter's questions about coaching. I hope you find it helpful, and that you will contact Kurt at coaching@cycleloft.com for more information about our services. Thanks for reading, Jeff Palter, Owner, The Cycle Loft.

JP: How long have you been a coach?

KB: I started coaching on the side in 1998, and made a full time transition into coaching in 2004. I'm presently a USA Cycling Level I I Coach and will be coaching two upcoming Federation Developmental training camps this summer in Trexlertown, PA at the National Track Training Center. [Kurt has since participated in several USAC U23 Talent ID Camps in the Lehigh Valley, PA area.]

JP: How did you transition from a rider, to industry professional, to fitting and coaching?

KB: Shortly after I had become a full time rider on the Zimbabwe National Team back in 1991, I realized that I wanted to work full time in the cycling industry, no matter what the capacity. Cycling is very much a “lifestyle” sport, and once you have been so immersed in it as a professional rider, it is easy to stay in the game. By the time your racing career is over, you have a vast knowledge base in the sport, and the transition is natural. I started focusing on fitting about ten years ago, when I realized that many of the reasons I had been positioned a certain way on the bike were nothing short of old wives' tales. I was intrigued by finding a system that was based on scientific proof, and helping people get correctly positioned. Roughly at the same time I started working with riders in a coaching capacity, knowing that most people learn from their friends, and friends of friends. Having come from a disciplined national program, I felt that I had a lot of knowledge to impart.

JP: What, if any, connection(s) is there between coaching and bicycle fitting?

KB: There is more of a connection than some people might understand. One example is that pedaling style can often effect bike fit, and vice versa. Bike fitters who are trained in ergonomics, but have little experience on the bike themselves often miss this connection. Often during a bike fit, I will end up segueing into pedaling dynamics, and coaching a rider on a more efficient way to pedal. This will lead into the stability of core muscles, and the recruitment of power. That can move onto balance and bike handling, and the discussion can snowball from there.

JP: I’ve read a lot of about video programs for fitting and the use of lasers and other high tech stuff, and in fact we have many of these tools here at the Loft. Any comments?

KB: Nowadays bike fitting has become quite the science, and there are quite a few systems out there in the marketplace. Twenty years ago there were many old wives' tales about fitting, which had no scientific proof as to why they would be relevant to being efficient or effective on the bike. Around 2001 or so, some of the best bike designers and ergonomists started compiling real scientific reasons as to why we are positioned a certain way. Ben Serotta was instrumental in this, and the info he gained along with others, hasn’t changed much in the last 10 years or so. But people are continually trying to show new ways of conveying that information, with lasers, cameras, power meters etc. Often they can be helpful, but sometimes they can confuse things even more. The important thing to remember is that computers only really tell us what we ask them to, and if you’re working with a trained ergonomist who has a good eye and you believe in their ability, they can get you where you need to be without the tech show. Don’t get me wrong, there is a coolness factor to all the high tech stuff, but none of that is a substitute for an experienced eye.

JP: What would/could a potential client gain from having a coach, especially if not an elite athlete?

KB: In my opinion, you don’t have to be an elite athlete to be open minded and willing to learn. In fact, most elite athletes, or riders who have been in the game a long time are actually impossible to coach. They figure that they’ve been doing it along time, and their way is the only way. But I often ask them, who taught them what they know, and who were their teachers' teachers? A professional coach will help you target a goal, work on your weaknesses, and help you develop your strengths. They will help you obtain a better knowledge base of the sport, and educate you on how it’s different characteristics, like equipment, nutrition, training and strategy all relate to one another.


JP: How many days per week does one need to ride to work well with a coach?

KB: If you want to make gains of any sort, then you have to ride a minimum of 4 days a week. If you want to be competitive, you’ll have to commit to 5 days a week, and if you’re serious about your competitiveness, then you’ll need to go to 6.

JP: I know there are heart rate monitors out there, and now power meters? Does one need one or both? What’s the “real" deal?

KB: This is a complicated one. Both are very helpful training tools, which can also become very destructive crutches. The best riders in the world use Power Meters to train with, but they very seldom (if ever), use them to race with. The same can be said about Heart Rate monitors. Too many athletes end up becoming anchored (literally) to these tools, and not developing their own intuition or feel for their own effort. Great riders such as Merckx, Hinault, Roche and Lemond all rode using the "old fashioned" RPE scale. RPE or Rate of Perceived Exertion is still an extremely accurate way to train, and is in fact the most accurate way to race a time trial or break away effort. I like to work with this first and instill that a rider has to know their body and be able to accurately gauge their own effort first, before taking them on to a Heart Rate monitor and then ultimately a Power Meter. Having all the training tools in the world won’t help one iota, unless you know how to use them. How can you interpret the knowledge from your efforts on your training devices, if you can’t accurately gauge your efforts?

JP: What differentiates your coaching style and services from those of some of the national companies I see marketed?

KB: I actually meet with my riders in person, and ride with them weekly. You wouldn’t take a music lesson over the phone, so why would you be coached by someone over the internet. People often see the successful relationships between star cyclists and successful coaches and forget that these people have met personally many, many times, and have relationships that span months, if not years. Working with someone who hasn’t personally seen you, your position on a bike, your pedaling style, and your execution techniques, and then expecting to improve over a couple of months, is more often than not…a set up for disappointment.

I don’t just prescribe training plans. I teach you how to execute them properly. How to ride more efficiently, and how to handle you bike more confidently. Ultimately be a more fully prepared and experienced athlete. Too many coaches just prescribe training programs, straight out of the science lab. Very few coaches actually teach people how to ride or race their bikes. I still do that.

JP: If one wants a cycling computer, do recommend one with a cadence feature?

KB: Yes. Cadence and its different characteristics are the basis of all cycling. Cadence is always relevant. The sooner you understand this as an athlete, the quicker you will improve.

JP: I’ve heard the statement, “ride faster by riding slower.” Can you briefly explain this?

KB: Briefly stated…it’s about economy of effort. Often cyclists equate riding hard or fast by riding in the big chainring (typically a 53T ring), and they think that riding big gears day in and day out will make them faster and stronger. That’s a recipe for over-training. The bottom line is that there is a very real science to how the body works efficiently and effectively. It incorporates applying workload, and then allowing time for adaptation to take place. That means hard days balanced by easy days, and big gears balanced by easy gears.

JP: The Loft offers “fitness/VO2 testing,” how does this interact, intersect, or connect with your coaching?

KB: Fitness testing is a good way for you to learn about what size engine is in your ribcage, and what types of cycling you might excel at. It can also be helpful in determining a nutrition plan, or to determine short comings in your training. Once you’ve done the testing and have the information…then it’s like…okay…what are we going to do with this now? It’s helpful in determining what you’re capable of in cycling, and if anything…you’ll learn a lot about yourself in a short span of time.

JP: Do I need a fitness test before I start working with a coach?

KB: No you don’t, but it is very helpful if you can do one. It’ll take some of the guessing out of “why you are at where you are at”. So information is always better than none at all. I will always recommend doing one, but it’s certainly not a requirement.

JP: While working with a coach, how long before one would start to see results?

KB: It takes a while to make gains in the sport of cycling…and unfortunately that’s just the way it is. When you look at the big names in the sport, particularly in this country it shouldn’t surprise you that the majority of them were racing as juniors. It’s very rare to have someone pick up the sport as a young adult, and go far in it. With that knowledge, you need to understand that it takes time to learn things, put them into practice, and then make gains. Especially in a complex and multifaceted sport such as cycling.

That’s why I have a minimum commitment of 3 months when you sign up on coaching with me. Different people learn at different rates, and I’ve had some athletes learn in two weeks, what others have in two months. I have often felt that ones ability to learn and absorb has a direct connection to their enthusiasm and openness. The old adage of “what you put in, you get out”…very much applies.